In case you are interested, here is the procedure I used to warp my loom.
The following may be helpful:
1) Winding the warp
The goal here is to produce many lengths of yarn that are all exactly the same length. Using a warping board, I wind the threads back and forth. Near the top, I create a cross – this keeps all the threads in order.
I do this in batches, so the warp doesn’t slip off the pegs. When removing the warp from the frame, I first add ties to preserve the cross and then wind the length into a basic crochet chain to keep things from tangling.
Rather than using a raddle, the process uses the reed to ensure that the warp is spaced correctly before winding it on the beam. I use lease sticks to preserve the cross.
3) Beaming the warp
The warp is attached to the back beam while still threaded through the reed and lease sticks. This is made easy by the fact that the ends here are all loops – I just thread the stick through the loops and attach it to the warp beam. The warp then goes over the back beam, through the lease sticks, through the reed, and over the breast beam, around the foot beam, and up over the warping trapeze. This step requires an additional person, or a warping trapeze, to provide tension on the warp while it is being wound. I have the parts for a trapeze, but it’s not built yet.
I then wind the warp onto the back warp beam (inserting beaming sticks as I go), leaving enough at the front to thread through the heddles.
4) Threading the heddles
This is fairly self-explanatory. The pattern I intend to weave determines the number of shafts and the pattern the heddles on those shafts should be threaded. The shafts are held steady in temporary holders.
5) Sleying the reed and tying up
The reed is threaded (or sleyed) in order to achieve a particular number of threads per inch. The sett of this yarn is 15 ends per inch. It’s usually a good idea to try to have as few threads per dent as your reed collection will allow. I happen to have a 15 dent reed, so that’s one I’ll use. The lease sticks are removed and the warp is then attached to the front cloth beam with as even tension as possible.
6) Countermarche tie-up
The countermarche controls the raising and lowering of the shafts. The countermarche unit it placed on top of the loom and the cords are attached to the shafts and lamms.
7) Treadle tie up
After this, the lamms are attached to the treadles. The short lamms control ‘down’ and the long lamms control ‘up’. For each treadle, one lamm per shaft is attached to the treadle (either a ‘down’ or an ‘up’). That means that when a treadle is pressed, all of the shafts move.
8) Final adjustments
All that remains is to ensure that the shed is nice and even. If I was careful in the previous steps this shouldn’t need too much adjustment.
I do a sample of the pattern in a contrasting colour to make sure everything is threaded correctly. I am now ready to weave.