Monthly Archives: April 2013

Sleeves In Progress

I’ve made progress on my new sleeves.  I’m using this portrait as inspiration, but am diverging slightly. I’ve made them a bit longer, and I haven’t padded them.  I want to ensure I still have full range of motion in my arms, since this dress is for archery.

Sleeve


Sleeve in progress

The bottom edge isn’t finished yet, but so far I think they look great.

Categories: Sewing | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

Monochrome Lampas Finished

The weaving is off the loom and through the wash (delicate, warm, low spin).  The wash shrinks up the threads, and shifts them to the place of least resistance.  Fabric can completely change appearance and texture after finishing.

Unfortunately, it’s still really hard to photograph well.

Lampas

Finished lampas

This is all 8/2 tencel.

I think for my next sample I’ll double the pattern weft, as that was usually done in a thicker thread and it’s just not filling in enough for full coverage.

Categories: Weaving | Tags: , , , | 4 Comments

Orange Fitted Gown Redux

The bodice is refitted (a little snugly – I hope to loose a little more weight in the next four weeks).  The skirt is reattached.  I have drafted and am cutting out new sleeves.

Before the sleeves can go on the dress needs to be finished and trimmed.  I want to make sure I have enough trim for the main body before putting trim on the sleeves.

I’ll do some hand sewing and add the hooks and eyes today, and hopefully have time to pin the majority of the trim.

Categories: Sewing | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

Rethinking Sleeves

I’m not happy with my sleeves.  So, since I’m taking the dress apart I’m rethinking options for re-doing them.  I just don’t have the time to experiment with boning or padding them up properly.

I think I’ll try something like this instead:

Portrait of Eleonora di Don Garzia di Toledo

 

Categories: Sewing | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

Back to the Drawing Board

This orange dress just isn’t working for me.  I can’t get the fit right after losing weight.  So, I’m going to admit defeat, take it apart, and refit it properly.  That means taking in about three inches and raising the skirt.  Hopefully the skirt will still be long enough, if now, I’ll add another strip of linen around the bottom.

On a happier note, the hat is coming along well.  The buckram is cut, wired, and I’m gluing the interlining g on.

Categories: Sewing | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Lampas Design #2 (Polychrome)

I’m only going to do two lampas designs, since they are taking even longer than I anticipated to weave.  So, a monochrome and a polychrome (multi-colour).

I’ve decided to do this pattern for the polychrome, probably repeating twice in the width:

Lampas_Polychrome

From Ostaus, Giovanni. La Vera Perfezione del Disegno, 1561
Recharted and mirrored

The background will be white, with dark green and red, and either yellow or gold for the acorn.

I think it looks very similar to this textile in the bottom left of this picture:

Textile fragments. Museum nos 47-1892, 744-1894, 8671-1863.

Photo by Glyn Davies
Orphrey (part), silk compound weave, 1400s, German; Interlaced folage and flowers, gold red blue

Categories: Weaving | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Wickelbander

As a side project on the little loom I’ve started some wickelbander (or winingas).  Norse/Anglo-Saxon leg wraps.

The research I’ve read states that these were most commonly done in an unevenly divinded 2/2  warp chevron twill.  Here’s a great link to more info about wickelbander.  After trying a few divisions, I’ve settled on something with unequal divisions but a regular pattern.  My warp widths are 10/4/8/6/4/6/8/4/10.  Sett is 15 epi, 60 ends plus two floating on each side = 64 ends.

Wickelbander

Weaving in progress

 

Categories: Weaving | Tags: , | Leave a comment

How to Weave Lampas on a Four Shaft Loom

People have been asking me about my technique, so I thought I’d try to explain it here.

The loom is warped using the plan described in a previous post. I added an extra treadle sequence to lower 1 and 2 (the binding warps) to make pick up easier. This system uses pick up sticks to maintain the pattern while the binding warp is raised.

Step 1
Lower shafts 1 and 2 (or raise shafts 3+4 if you have a jack loom) – this moves the binding threads down and out of the way.
Use a pick up stick to pick up your pattern.

pick-up

Picked up pattern

Raise the pick up stick and treadle pattern 1. This will raise one half of the binding warps. The shuttle needs to go in the smaller shed.

warp

Raised patterm warp and lifted binding warp. The arrow points to where the shuttle goes.

Step 2
Transfer the pick up stick to back behind the heddles while maintaining the threads.

pick-up-behind

Pick up stick behind the heddles

Treadle and weave ground 1.

Step 3
Transfer the pick up sticks with pattern back to the front.

Raise the pick up stick and treadle pattern 2. This will raise the other half of the binding warps. As before, the shuttle needs to go in the smaller shed.

Step 4
Remove the pick up stick. Treadle and weave ground 2.

Step 5
Repeat steps 1-4 for the next pattern row.

Lampas_Progress

On an angle, you can see the pattern in the weave. This should show up much better after finishing the fabric.

Categories: Weaving | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Lampas In Progress

The loom is warped using the plan described in a previous post.  I added an extra treadle sequence to lower 1 and 2 (the binding warps) to make pick up easier.  This system uses pick up sticks to maintain the pattern while the binding warp is raised.

warp

The shuttle needs to go through the small opening – this is the pattern plus the binding warps.

I’m doing 2 pattern repeats, -1 to even them out, an inch of ‘plain weave’ on either side.  I’m adding another binding warp on the far end to balance the fabric.

So far it’s coming along nicely. I can’t really see the design, but I’m hoping that will show up much better with wet finishing – this is often the case with textured textiles.

progress

Weaving so far. This took 20 minutes. I hope I get faster – I expect I will.

Categories: Weaving | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Lampas Fail

Well, big fat weaving fail.  I underestimated the difficulty of picking up the main warp through the binding warp.  I’ve cut off what I’ve done, and I have enough warp for one more attempt.

This time, I’ve added another treadle to lift just the main warp – I will do pick up here (unencumbered by the binding warp), then raise the binding warp afterwards and run the shuttle in the small space in between.  This should work.

I’m also realizing the time it’s  going to take to complete this project.  I will have to cut down the size of my samples, I think.  1 inch of plain plus two repeats of the pattern instead of 3 2/3 repeats.  That should still make a nice sample 8 inches wide before finishing.

I’m also concerned that the tencel will not bloom enough to show the pattern nicely.  It worked great in the cotton sample, but the tencel is a different animal.  I’m going to forge ahead and see how it goes, as fabric often looks completely different after finishing.

Categories: Weaving | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Blog at WordPress.com.