Monthly Archives: March 2015

Warping the Drawloom

I few people have asked to see the steps needed when warping the drawloom compared to doing it without the drawloom attachment.

1) Adding the loom extension

The second set of harnesses requires more space, so the back beam needs to be extended.

loom extension

The new back posts are extendable much further, but this is all I need for now.

2) Winding the warp

The goal here is to produce many lengths of yarn that are all exactly the same length. Using a warping board, I wind the threads back and forth. Near the top, I create a cross – this keeps all the threads in order. I do this in batches, so the warp doesn’t slip off the pegs. When removing the warp from the frame, I first add ties to preserve the cross and then wind the length into a basic crochet chain to keep things from tangling.

Winding the warp

Warp on the warping board

3) Presleying the reed

Rather than using a raddle, the process uses the reed to ensure that the warp is spaced correctly before winding it on the beam.

Prereeding

I forgot to take a picture of this, so I’m using an old one.

4) Beaming the warp

The warp is attached to the back beam while still threaded through the reed and lease sticks. This is made easy by the fact that the ends here are all loops – I just thread the stick through the loops and attach it to the warp beam. The warp then goes over the back beam, through the lease sticks, through the reed, and over the breast beam, around the foot beam, and up over the warping trapeze. This step requires an additional person, or a warping trapeze, to provide tension on the warp while it is being wound.

Beamed warp

Here the warp is fully beamed (wound around the back beam)

5) Mount the drawloom apparatus and thread the cords

The shaft drawloom apparatus sits on top of the loom.  The cords are threaded, but the shafts are not yet attached.

Drawloom apparatus

Shaft drawloom

6) Pre-weighting the pattern heddles

The pattern heddles are weighted by unit. I am separate them into units and adding a lingo (‘U’-shaped weight) to each grouping – here, five-heddles per weight, grouped in bunches of ten for counting.  I’m using the front beam just because it’s a convenient place to hang them.

Pre-weighting the pattern heddles

Weighted pattern heddles

7) Threading the pattern heddles

Which warp threads go in the pattern heddles varies by weave.

Threading the pattern heddles

Pattern heddles half threaded.

8) Threading the ground weave heddles

Next we thread the warp through the ground weave.  Again, which warp threads go in the pattern heddles varies by weave.

Threading the ground weave heddles

Ground heddles half threaded.

9) Sleying the reed and tying up

The reed is threaded (or sleyed) in order to achieve a particular number of threads per inch. The sett of this yarn is 28 ends per inch. The lease sticks are removed and the warp is then attached to the front cloth beam with as even tension as possible.

Sleying the reed and tying up

Warp is all threaded and tied up.

10) Countermarche tie-up

The countermarche controls the raising and lowering of the ground shafts. The treadles are threaded as needed for the ground weave.

Lamms-Treadles

Treadles.

11) Attaching the pattern shafts

The pattern shafts are moved into place and connected to the drawloom apparatus.

Attaching the drawloom shafts

Drawloom shafts.

12) Ready to weave

Ready to weave

Here we go!

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