Weave Structures Samples

All of these weave structures are from extant pre-17th century textiles.  Click on the image for more information.

They are all woven in the same yarn (8/2 unmercerized cotton) with a natural-colored warp. Half of the sample is woven with a natural-coloured weft, and half of the sample is woven in a contrasting blue weft. The purpose of this is to show the weave structure as much as possible, and also display how the weave affects textiles done in the same materials.  The thread used is much thicker than would be found on the extant textiles, to make it easier to see.

(Why did I chose unmercerized cotton? These samples travel and are frequently handled – unmercerized cotton is durable, washable, and inexpensive enough that I can replace worn out or damaged samples).

June 2016: Please note this is a work in progress. I am in the process of coping over my citation, weaving drafts, and adding further where/when references.  I will also be weaving more samples as time allows.  If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.


Basic

Tabby

Tabby_Plain

Tabby (plain weave)

Tabby_Extended

Half-basket (extended tabby)

Tabby_Basket

Basket weave

Twill

22Twill

2/2 twill

21Twill

2/1 twill

13Twill

3/1 twill

31Twill

1/3 twill

Other

Sateen

5-shaft sateen (weft-faced satin)

Twill Variations

Chevron

22ChevronTwill

2/2 chevron twill

2-1-Chevron-Twill

2/1 chevron twill

31ChevronTwill

3/1 chevron twill

13ChevronTwill

1/3 chevron twill

22BrokenChevronTwill

2/2 broken chevron twill

Lozenge (Diamond)

22LozengeTwill

2/2 lozenge twill

2-1-Lozenge-Twill

2/1 lozenge twill

31LozengeTwill

3/1 lozenge twill

13LozengeTwill

1/3 lozenge twill

22BrokenLozengeTwill

2/2 broken lozenge twill

Other

22Twill_Broken

2/2 broken twill (kreuzkoper)

IrregularBrokenTwill_Front

Irregular Broken Twill: ‘Fustian’ weave

Rosette

Rosette twill (rosettenkoper)

21RibbedTwill

2/1 ribbed twill (rippenkoper)

31Twill_Ribbed

3/1 ribbed twill (rippenkoper)

Float-Patterned Textiles

Rayed cloth

Ray1

Tabby with extended tabby bands

Ray2

Tabby with twill bands

Ray3

Tabby with extended tabby and twill bands

Other

WarpFloatJorvik1336

Float Patterned Twill #1 (Jorvik 1336)

Compound Harness

Since figured textiles are, well, figured – I have to do this a bit differently.  I’m not focusing on the figures (there’s a gazillion of them), but on the weave, so I’m using the same figured design for all of these samples.  I’ve chosen a design from Il Burato (Paganino, c. 1527).  It’s a relatively simple pattern, that is complex enough to show the difference the weave makes to its appearance.

Damask

Damask

5-shaft satin damask

Samite

Weft-faced compound twill (samite)

4 Comments

4 thoughts on “Weave Structures Samples

  1. Good important work.

  2. Wowzers. That’s a fantastic sample set.

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