Edit: This pattern has since been modified. See the newer version here.
A couple of people have requested the actual pattern for my Norse aprondress, so I’m including it here.
To see a photo of my mock-up, as well as my research, go to this post.
I modified the pattern to use gores rather than the curved seams used in the Margareta gown in order to reduce the amount of fabric waste.
I’ve since made some modifications from my mockup to the pattern.
I am not attaching the gores straight-edge to straight-edge. I did this for design considerations of the fabric stripes along the hem. This should also eliminate any potential puckering of the straight to bias seam. In order to prevent stretching on the bias-to-bias seam, I plan on doing a tablet-woven seam to reinforce it. Since the Margareta gown uses curved seams (integral gores?), they would also be bias-to-bias.
The finished pattern will require approximately 5 yards at 20″ wide (four 44″ long panels). Narrower widths are easier to weave, and I can use the selvedges as much as possible to avoid fraying edges.
As you can see, I made the gore fabric a little longer to avoid stripes at the tops of the triangles. This caused some fabric waste, but I felt it was better from a design perspective. Since I’m weaving the fabric myself, I have absolute control over the placement, spacing, and width of the stripes.
The garment itself is incredibly simple. Two rectangular body panels and two triangular gores.
I have placed the shoulder straps closer together on the back than in the front. I found this placement more comfortable, and kept the straps from slipping off my shoulders. I may modify this placement once I try the actual wool dress on, as the material will be much heavier.
The Haithabu fragment had a dart in it, and I will likely add the same to the side backs to improve the fit.
Of course, all of this will depend on how the finished fabric turns out, and how the garment feels/fits once I have it on.