Posts Tagged With: polychrome pick-up lampas

Lampas – Documentation

Here is a link to the documentation for my lampas project.

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Polychrome Lampas Finished

The lampas is off the loom and finished.  As you can see it bloomed up nicely with the doubled threads.  I made a few mistakes in the patterning, but I am very happy with the piece overall.


Before finishing


After finishing

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Polychrome Lampas In Progress

I’ve made it into the three colour portion of the weaving.  Apart from a few mistakes, I think it’s coming along beautifully.


Polychrome lampas in progress

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Polychrome Lampas Started

I managed to save myself some time in warping by tying on my new warp to my old one.  I’m doubling the pattern weft with the hopes of it filling in more.  I won’t know until it is off the loom and washed.


This is more work than it looks like

It doesn’t look like much, but what you are seeing is the bottom two rows of my pattern (each row is woven twice, so two rows of green weft equals one row in the graph).


My final pattern

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Lampas Design #2 (Polychrome)

I’m only going to do two lampas designs, since they are taking even longer than I anticipated to weave.  So, a monochrome and a polychrome (multi-colour).

I’ve decided to do this pattern for the polychrome, probably repeating twice in the width:


From Ostaus, Giovanni. La Vera Perfezione del Disegno, 1561
Recharted and mirrored

The background will be white, with dark green and red, and either yellow or gold for the acorn.

I think it looks very similar to this textile in the bottom left of this picture:

Textile fragments. Museum nos 47-1892, 744-1894, 8671-1863.

Photo by Glyn Davies
Orphrey (part), silk compound weave, 1400s, German; Interlaced folage and flowers, gold red blue

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Lampas In Progress

The loom is warped using the plan described in a previous post.  I added an extra treadle sequence to lower 1 and 2 (the binding warps) to make pick up easier.  This system uses pick up sticks to maintain the pattern while the binding warp is raised.


The shuttle needs to go through the small opening – this is the pattern plus the binding warps.

I’m doing 2 pattern repeats, -1 to even them out, an inch of ‘plain weave’ on either side.  I’m adding another binding warp on the far end to balance the fabric.

So far it’s coming along nicely. I can’t really see the design, but I’m hoping that will show up much better with wet finishing – this is often the case with textured textiles.


Weaving so far. This took 20 minutes. I hope I get faster – I expect I will.

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Threading the Heddles

I find this to be the most tedious part of weaving.

13 inches with 48 threads per inch means 624 + 4 (to center the pattern) gives me 628 threads.  Each thread needs to be threaded into the eye of one heddle, in a pattern.


1/4 of the way done.

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Lampas – Weaving Draft Explained

I have had a request for more information about my lampas weave setup.  Like with anything, diagrams explain more than text, so I’ve sketched up a draft of what I mean.  This is the backside of the fabric, which shows more information about the fabric that the front.  When weaving, I will reverse the tie-up (rising become falling, and vise versa) to put more threads on the bottom (3 vs 1) so the shuttle is less likely to fall through.  Also, I prefer weaving face-up.


This is the draft I am using for my lampas.
This has been reversed to show the backside, which gives more information about the fabric.

A: The pattern.  

This is the charted pattern that I am weaving.  Blue represents the pattern, and white is the background.  Each square is equal to four warp ends and four weft picks.  This is reversed in the drawdown, because it shows the back of the fabric.

B: The tie up

The threading is a repeat of 3,4,3,2,4,3,4,1.

C: The treadle tie up

This is how I am tying up my treadles.  O is a raising shaft, X is falling.  Black means no tie up (the warp will stay in the middle of the shed).

This is the key to my theory.  On the pattern (blue) weft picks, half of the black threads will rise, and half will lower.  The red threads will stay in the middle of the shed, grouped in threes.  I will then manually pick out the pattern in the red weft.  The black threads act as the tabby warp for the (blue) pattern weft.

D: The treadling pattern

This is treadled in the following repeat:

  • Pattern1: 2 down, 1 up, 3+4 centre
  • Ground1: 1, 2, 3 up, 4 down
  • Pattern2: 1 down, 2 up, 3+4 centre
  • Ground2: 1, 2, 4 up, 3 down.

E: The threading colors

These are for illustrative purposes, and do not represent the colours I will actually use to weave my design.

Red = ground warp
Black = binding warp
White = ground weft
Blue = pattern weft

F: The drawdown

If you think about double weave, you are weaving two layers of fabric at the same time.   Red and white threads represent the ground layer, and blue and black represent the pattern layer.

On the left-side of the drawdown the two layers do not interlace and a true doubleweave fabric is produced.  On the right-hand side (where the blue pattern threads are visible on the front) the key to notice is the little blue dots.  The black binding warp (which is the warp for the pattern layer of doubleweave cloth) goes through both layers of fabric, binding them together into one.

Lampas Textile from book: Pattern and Loom

Image – Lampas Textile from book: Pattern and Loom page 171 (image has been cropped).
The face is shown on the left. The backside is on the right side, showing the doubleweave.

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Lampas – Loom Setup Trials

Since I’m having a hard time visualizing my proposed setup, I am doing a small test swatch to confirm my understanding before starting the real project.

So, I’ve threaded 40 ends of cotton at 40 epi for a 1 inch band.  I’m using 40 epi rather than the 48 for tencel, since tencel should be set tighter than cotton.

The loom uses shafts 1 and 2 for the binding warp, and 3 and 4 for the ground.  It will be threaded in a repeat of 3,4,3,2,4,3,4,1.

It will be treadled in the following repeat:

  • B1: 2 up, 1 down, 3+4 centre
  • G1: 1, 2, 3 down, 4 up
  • B2: 1 up, 2 down, 3+4 centre
  • G2: 1, 2, 4 down, 3 up.

I tested my theory using the color coded threads they used in Pattern and Loom. Red for the ground warp, black for the binding. White for the ground weft, blue for the pattern.

It worked as intended.  The background separated into a doubleweave while the pattern weave merged into one fabric (you can see black stripes going over the white threads on the back, look at the top center of the bottom photo).


Lampas test front


Lampas test back

So now all I need to do is draft out my pattern more clearly, and wait for my 12 dent reed to arrive before I can actually start my project.

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Lampas – Loom Setup Theory

In ‘Pattern and Loom’, John Becker proposes a way to weave lampas with a pick-up technique on a four-shaft loom as a doubleweave set-up.  When a pattern row turns up in the draft, a fifth patterning treadle is used to lift the whole of the main warp.  The pattern is then picked out with a shed stick.  The stick is held flat against the reed while the treadle for one of the binding warps is raised.  A new shed stick is inserted behind the reed.  The end result is a shed that consists of  the pattern and one half of the binding warps. The pick is thrown and the stick is removed.

I have decided to alter his method to take advantage of my countermarche loom.  Instead of raising the main warp threads, I will raise half of the binding warp and lower the other half (as for a normal tabby weave).  This leaves the main warp suspended in the middle of the shed.  I then use a tapestry bobbin to thread my pattern warp through the main shed.  This also results in a weft that goes above all of the patterned area of the main warp and one half of the binding threads, as above, but without the use of the two shed sticks.  This method of weaving pick up would not be possible on a jack loom (which is the more common type found in North America).

The loom will use shafts 1 and 2 for the binding warp, and 3 and 4 for the ground.

It will be threaded in a repeat of 3,4,3,2,4,3,4,1.

It will be treadled in the following repeat:

  • P1: 2 up, 1 down, 3+4 centre
  • G1: 1, 2, 3 down, 4 up
  • P2: 1 up, 2 down, 3+4 centre
  • G2: 1, 2, 4 down, 3 up.

I plan to use sett of 24 epi per side (a common plain weave sett for 8/2 tencel), doubled for 48 epi in total.

Since this is a theory, I plan to do a small warp in cotton to test the weave structure before warping up for my project.

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