Posts Tagged With: red and black doublet

Trial Run

Since I’ve had a lot of issues with fit lately, I decided to give my red doublet a trial run for the day to catch any additional errors before I apply all the trim.

I’m wearing it with a black petticoat and sleeves. Looks good, no?

Red_Black

Red doublet (trial run)

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Trimming the Doublet

After some experimentation, I’ve decided to use perle cotton for the trim. The wool was nice and black, but didn’t show the braiding very well. The linen showed the braiding beautifully, but was more gray than black. I just couldn’t afford to do it in silk.

The braid pattern I’m using is “A Broad Lace of 5 Loops” from Tak V Bowes Departed.

I was going to add a photo, but I just can’t get any detail from the black thread.

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Closures and Wings

I’ve finally finished the hook and eyes at the front of the doublet. I decided to try hook and eye tape, as I hate sewing individual hooks and eyes. It was a learning experience, but one I might be willing to repeat now that I’ve done it successfully. The end result seems to be worth it.

Adding a collar and the shoulder wings went quickly. There really wasn’t much to do.

Red Doublet

Doublet partially open

All that remains to do is trim (and lacing strips for the sleeves, but I’ll make those when I sew the sleeves).

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Red Doublet

As I said in a previous post, my doublet design is based on padded doublet at the Met Museum. Mostly just the couched cord on the upper portion of the doublet. I’ve decided to try to mirror the upper line to the waist-V, and do vertical stripes along the top. I’ve moved the double row of buttons from the upper to the lower partition of the doublet, and thought to add ties for the upper portion (all of which is decorative – the doublet closes with hooks and eyes). The skirting consists of looped tabs (like the shoulder wings on the padded doublet), but doubled red and black, with matching tabs along the shoulder.

doublet design

Design sketch

Right now the bottom tabs are on. Time to add the front fastenings and the shoulder wings.

Red Doublet

Doublet with skirting

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Adventures With Hook and Eye Tape

My plan was to attach the hook and eye tape to my doublet lining, then sew that onto the outer fabric. This didn’t work. For some reason, the hook and eye tape decided to curl oddly. So much so that I though perhaps I had forgotten to cut down the front of one of my side-fronts. I took the hook and eye tape out.

The fronts lined up perfectly, so I sewed the lining to the outer fabric along the bottom and top collar. Suddenly, it behaves… Bother! Anyways, my plan is now to rip out a bit of the seams, re-attach the hook and eye tape to the lining, and then stitch the layers together nicely. Next time I’ll just leave it in.

Oh, and I need to drop the waistline in the back by half an inch. I made it too high.

This project is a disaster. Everything is going wrong. The actual doublet, however, is turning out very nicely.

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Doublet Design

While putting together the base of my red doublet, I’ve been thinking about its overall design. Since the red is so vibrant I’ve decided to do the trim in black. The overall design is inspired by a padded doublet at the Met Museum. This will consist of wrapped buttons and a a fair amount of fingerloop braid. The buttons will be decorative, with hooks and eyes for the actual closure. I’m still trying to decide between wool and linen thread for the buttons/braid.

Doublet

Red doublet in progress

And here’s where I am so far. The base layers have been competed and I’m almost ready to join the front layers and the lining together. I’m using three layers of linen in this doublet – the red outer fabric, the black lining, and a white heavier linen interlining. The interlining serves two purposes. Firstly, it keeps the black from showing up underneath the red linen, and secondly, it gives the body a little more stiffness. I’m hoping this (as well as all the cording) will help hide the otherwise quite noticeable horizontal bodies-line along my front bust.

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Red and Black Doublet

And because it will take a few weeks for the mint green fabric to line my black doublet to arrive, I’ve decided to work on other projects.

On the list is a black petticoat, a red petticoat, and a red doublet. I’ll leave the petticoats for now, as I don’t know how much fabric I’ll have left over to use in them (I prefer 5 yards, but can make do with 4). This leaves the red doublet.

I’m concerned that the red may be a little overpowering on me, seeing as it’s very red, so I’ve decided to add a bunch of black wool fingerloop braid for trim, as well as black lining along the skirts and shoulder wings.

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