I have had a request for more information about my lampas weave setup. Like with anything, diagrams explain more than text, so I’ve sketched up a draft of what I mean. This is the backside of the fabric, which shows more information about the fabric that the front. When weaving, I will reverse the tie-up (rising become falling, and vise versa) to put more threads on the bottom (3 vs 1) so the shuttle is less likely to fall through. Also, I prefer weaving face-up.
This is the draft I am using for my lampas.
This has been reversed to show the backside, which gives more information about the fabric.
A: The pattern.
This is the charted pattern that I am weaving. Blue represents the pattern, and white is the background. Each square is equal to four warp ends and four weft picks. This is reversed in the drawdown, because it shows the back of the fabric.
B: The tie up
The threading is a repeat of 3,4,3,2,4,3,4,1.
C: The treadle tie up
This is how I am tying up my treadles. O is a raising shaft, X is falling. Black means no tie up (the warp will stay in the middle of the shed).
This is the key to my theory. On the pattern (blue) weft picks, half of the black threads will rise, and half will lower. The red threads will stay in the middle of the shed, grouped in threes. I will then manually pick out the pattern in the red weft. The black threads act as the tabby warp for the (blue) pattern weft.
D: The treadling pattern
This is treadled in the following repeat:
- Pattern1: 2 down, 1 up, 3+4 centre
- Ground1: 1, 2, 3 up, 4 down
- Pattern2: 1 down, 2 up, 3+4 centre
- Ground2: 1, 2, 4 up, 3 down.
E: The threading colors
These are for illustrative purposes, and do not represent the colours I will actually use to weave my design.
Red = ground warp
Black = binding warp
White = ground weft
Blue = pattern weft
F: The drawdown
If you think about double weave, you are weaving two layers of fabric at the same time. Red and white threads represent the ground layer, and blue and black represent the pattern layer.
On the left-side of the drawdown the two layers do not interlace and a true doubleweave fabric is produced. On the right-hand side (where the blue pattern threads are visible on the front) the key to notice is the little blue dots. The black binding warp (which is the warp for the pattern layer of doubleweave cloth) goes through both layers of fabric, binding them together into one.
Image – Lampas Textile from book: Pattern and Loom page 171 (image has been cropped).
The face is shown on the left. The backside is on the right side, showing the doubleweave.