Weave Sample: Weft-Faced Compound Twill

Usually referred to as samite (or sometimes samitum).

In this sample I tested several styles of samite. From the bottom up, we have:

• Plain (unfigured) samite
• Duochrome figured samite (1-2-2-1 weft order)
• Duochrome figured samite (1-2-1-2 weft order)
• Monochrome figured samite (1-2-2-1 weft order)
• Monochrome figured samite (1-2-1-2 weft order)

Weft-Faced Compound Twill

When and where can this textile be found?

• Roman-Era Egypt (1st century to mid-3rd century) in wool [1].
• 9th – early 10th century Pomerania in silk [3].
• Late 9th – 10th century England in silk [2].

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[1] Taqueté and Damask from Mons Claudianus: A Discussion of Roman Looms for Patterned Textiles by Martin Ciszuk (in Purpureae Vestes)
[2] Late Saxon Textiles from the City of London by Frances Pritchard
[3] Fabrics in Medieval Dress in Pomerania by Ann Rybarczyk

 

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