Monthly Archives: July 2013

Green Gown Update

I’ve couched the front panels…



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Green Gown Update

I’ve been couching the gold like mad, stopping only to make more gold cord.  The vertical stripes are all done, and I’ve started on the panels.  I also need to add the small chevrons inside the vertical bands in the lower portion of the doublet and at the shoulders.

I’m debating doing the full hanging sleeves, or just shoulder wings. I think I will wait and see how long the embroidery takes me, to see if I have time to do the large sleeves.


Doublet front in progress


Doublet back in progress

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Green Gown Design

I’ve decided on the pattern for the inner panels of my doublet.  The original is from Modelbuch aller art Nehewercks un Strickens (1527).  While the design is from a modelbuch 40 years earlier than the fashion of the dress, it’s not too far a departure from the original doublet to be unreasonable.  Knotwork and vining style motifs continued to be used throughout this period.  Spangles have also been used as dress decoration, though they are more commonly seen on coifs and jackets.

I like this design.  It adds a nice complexity while remaining within my abilities.  I’ll be adding gilt spangles where the dots are.


Sketched to fit in one of the doublet panels

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Demo Garb

We’re doing a demo next month where everyone wears garb based on the Luttrell Psalter (mid 14th century).  With that in mind, both my hubby and I need new garb.

I made a basic t-tunic style underdress, and a cyclas to go over top of it.


It still needs ironing

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Green Doublet Progress

The stripes are finished one one quarter of the doublet.  I still have the embroidery to add in the bottom panels, but I’m making good progress.


Doublet in progress


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Wickelbander In Progress

The sample I did at 30 epi came out decidedly weft-faced, so I’ve started again with a sett of 36 epi.  It’s weaving up much nicer now.

The fine wool is prone to fray at the edges, but a closer sett seems to be helping (less draw in).  I’m also using a very, very light beat.  You can see the curves in the twill where I try different beats.  I’ll be adding a temple before I continue, too.


Sample – too much weft


Weaving in progress. A tighter sett and a lighter beat is giving me very close to a 45 degree angle to the twill.

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Wickelbander Beamed

The wool is beamed.  For me, this is the hardest part of the warping process.  A nice consistent even tension makes all the difference when weaving.  Unlike a mis-threaded heddle, this isn’t really a step you can do over.

I was a little concerned because the fine wool was so delicate, but it beamed up like a dream.  Very little fuzzies, no breakage, and lovely tension.  So far I’m very impressed with this yarn.

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Back to the Green Gown

I have four months to complete this outfit, so I need to get back on track.

I’ve decided to get the cording portion of the doublet done, and attach the tabs and skirt.  Basically, get as much of the dress done as possible.  That way if I run out of time I don’t have to do the fancy couched bits.

Here’s my to do list:

  • Square-necked shift
  • Partlet with attached ruff
  • Wrist ruffs
  • Farthingale
  • Petticoat bodies
  • Forepart
  • Sleeves
  • Gown
    • Doublet embroidery
    • Buttons
    • Add tabs
    • Add skirt to doublet
    • Skirt embroidery
    • Finishing
  • French Hood

Of this, the shift and petticoat bodies are close to finished.  The partlet, ruffs, and other accoutrements are not even started.  The doublet is still being embroidered, and I still need to do 32 buttons (out of 40).

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More Wickelbander

I just can’t leave a loom empty, so I’ve started another pair of wickelbander (or winingas).  Norse/Anglo-Saxon leg wraps.  This time, I’ve going to be doing an unevenly divided warp chevron twill.  Here’s a great link to more info about wickelbander.

I’m using a new wool, Jaggerspun 2/20 Maine Line in Natural and Williamsburg Blue.  It’s finer than the other wools I’ve used, and should be better for garment weight projects.  I’ve found a Canadian source, so that should help keep my shipping charges down in the future.  This project will be a test to see how the wool finishes.  If it works out well I think this will be my regular go to wool.  I have high hopes.

The wool will be sett at 30 epi, with a doubled floating selvedge.  At 144 ends, this should warp up quickly.  It will be 4 2/3 inches in the reed, and should (if my guess is correct) shrink down to 4 inches wide.  The exact size is unimportant so I’m not sampling.


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